Don't leave with your glass empty

I wrote an article about the Christmas break – read that here > www.winefolio.co.nz/?p=9930. I usually go on a week away in the second week or so after New Year, and I don’t usually ‘turn on’ to wine again until after that. A box of mixed wines is something of a blessing around then. A mixed bag that I can dip in and out of without having to think too hard about it – just see what comes. Laithwaites have a knack of always including something quirky, or that I wouldn’t normally reach for myself. 

Here it is a Semillon – which isn’t that unusual, but from Barossa? Happy to try it – it’s quite good – but wouldn’t be on my radar normally. This review finishes with a run of four different European varietals too – they do these so well. Step off your well-beaten track and try something new – works for me.

The Black Pig Sparkling NV

A pale gold, with a foam of tight bubbles. Citrus, white peach, weetbix and baking spice on the nose. Zesty, greener flavours come through in the palate, rounded out with a fruit sweetness that adds balance and plushness. A clean, fresh and fruity style that is great as an aperitif, or for serving at a party.

Quarisa ‘Treasures’ Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2020

A light straw colour with flashes of green. Rich and full aromas of yellow peach, melon, vanilla, lemon curd and hazelnut. Generously full-bodied on the palate – the oak is prominent and smoky, and I get a lees-influenced phenolic note. A creamy texture adds more richness, heading into that old school, Californian-style of Chardonnay that will have fans – but is not necessarily to my tastes.

Angove Bin 273 Pinot Grigio

A very pale straw colour, with with pear, lemon peel, ginger, green herbs and red apple notes. Ripe flavours are highlighted by a clean acidity, giving plenty of energy and zip to the mid-palate. Both an oyster-shell minerality and sweeter, tropical flavours swell towards the well-balanced and dry finish.

Patronus ‘The Fawn’ Barossa Valley Semillon 2022

Australian Semillon can one of their great white wines. A very pale lemon-green, with zingy aromas of lemon, apple, satsuma, white pepper, nougat and lime blossom. A bone dry expression – zesty and lifted by a pumice-like, mineral freshness. A waxy texture and a fine acidity work in tandem and to keep the interest high as you progress to a well-balanced, electric finish. Super with food or as a zesty lunchtime wine.92pts

The Black Pig Reserve McLaren Vale Shiraz

A dense, deep black-purple colour in the glass. Perfumed with blackcurrant, leather, boysenberry, mocha, liquorice and baking spices. The backbone of toasty oak, supple tannin and generous acidity is all there. A big, bold wine that is still fairly tight and youthful – it really needs to be decanted to open it up (if drinking it now), and would reward anyone who could put it away in their cellar to develop. The finish is spicy, with cracked pepper and has that distinctive McLaren vale chocolate note. 91pts

Riverscape Estate Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2020

A dark ruby burgundy colour in the glass, with a ripe swathe of blackberry, plum, black peppercorn, allspice and clove greeting the nose. Spicy and peppery with a good depth in the rounded, broad palate. Tannin, oak and acidity all provide backbone and are well-balanced. Savoury notes of black olive and eucalypt feature amongst the plush fruit. A rich wine, with a sweet, persistent finish. 90pts

Six Word Wine Co. Padthaway Shiraz/Touriga 2021

The boldness and body of the peppery Shiraz meets the lifted aroma of violets of the Touriga Nacional. Both varietals are quite suited to warm climates – Touriga has travelled to Padthaway from its home in Portugal. Inkily black, with just a flash of magenta to the edges in the glass. The body shows tannins that do have a touch of grippiness; but the marriage of the two grapes makes a gentle wine that has simple, rounded appeal. All up, it’s an opulent, lush red.

Peter Lehmann Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon 2020

A Cabernet Sauvignon – and a modern-classic Barossa wine. A nose that is packed with super ripe fruit, with blackberry and redcurrant in the lead, then chocolate, smoked chorizo, Christmas cake and pencil shavings. Dry, with lovely, svelte tannins and more of that bright, plush fruit bleeding through the palate. Firmly concentrated and persistent, with a sleek texture and an abundance and intensity to the long finish. 93pts

Camino de Seda 2022

From bush vines of Monastrell in vineyards at altitude above the desert-like plains of the Jumilla region in Spain. The name translates as ‘silk road’ – the region is on the old trading route, and is home to a multitude of mulberry trees (a silk moth’s favourite dwelling). A brooding dark red-black in the glass. Cherry and plum flavours mingle with lots of peppery spice on the nose and into the palate. A velvet-like smooth texture with vanilla and dark chocolate gives an impression of sweetness – and it is rich and plush…but works well when matched with roasted or BBQ meats. 

Tenuta Fenice Nero d’Avola 2022

Sicilian wine has been very on-trend in the last couple of years, with the world discovering the red wines from the island’s native varieties. Damson, liquorice and bramble lead the aromas. Don’t let the dark colour in the glass deceive you – this is quite light on its feet through the palate. The tannin is fine and chalky, and the oak just frames the bright fruit. Has that southern italian spice element to it, without overpowering the delicate fruit flavours. Smooth and intricate on the finish.92pts

Il Papavero Primitivo 2022

The essential grape of Puglia – if you could choose one varietal to showcase southern Italy, this would probably be it! Black pepper, salami, and tapenade elements jostle the ripe, deep black fruits for your attention. A swell of cassis, blackberry and plum fall into line – juicy and intense. Enriched with a seam of zesty acidity, the palate is plump and glossy, with the interplay between the fruit and the spice taking centre stage. Tannin is discrete and supporting. A definitive expression of the varietal and place. 92pts

Di Cavallo Sangiovese Rubicone 2021

Sangiovese is the classic grape for Chianti in Tuscany. They also grow it in the neighbouring Emilia Romagna region – where this originates. Both regions are gastronomic powerhouses, demanding wines of character and elegance. Perfumed with blackcurrant, cherry, raspberry and a little medicinal nip of eucalypt and green herbs. A really energy and freshness through the palate. There is ample spice, but overall this is just fresh, fruity and dynamic. 90pts

Turning to a new chapter in the on-going adventures in wine discovery, courtesy of Laithwaites. The box this month contains a range of wines – expect the unexpected! We’ll start with the sparkling wine, then onto a white, then move through a (very good) Rosé. There’s a good selection of three reds – from Australia – Laithwaites do seem to have a super selection of good-value and yummy reds from ‘West Island’. The last wine is one I’ll be uncorking on a video, so look out for that – a Touriga Nacional from Portugal.

Song and Dance Sparkling. A non-nonsense sparkler. It’s not going to wine awards for complexity, but it has a lovely zip of freshness to both the perfume and into the palate. One to get the party started. Juicy flavours of apple, grapefruit and lemon peel. A lightness and froth to the body, where just a touch of savoury, herbal flavours add an edge of interest.

Trimboli ‘White Duck’ Chardonnay/Pinot Grigio 2022 is a white blend (of the two grapes) from New South Wales. A pale straw colour with tinges of green. Aromatic and vibrant, taking the best fruit flavours from both varietals. The palate is equally fruit-driven, with grapefruit, peach, pear and lychee flowing on a zesty acidity. Crisply dry, with a touch of fuzzy tannin adding phenolic complexity. Notes of herbs, baking spice and honeycomb also creep in as you go. There is a creaminess to the fine texture, and a pleasing length to the finish. 91pts

McPherson Aquarius Rosé has that lovely pale coral pink colour that is so inviting. Quite floral and aromatic, with fresh herbal notes to go with the crushed summer berries. Slightly more ‘serious’ on the palate than the nose suggests – a light phenolic rasp of peppercorn and bitters, which is very appealing. Well balanced and with plenty of good juice. A super wine for the table. 91pts

Red Rattler Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot has that lovely combination of these two classic varietals where the Cabernet provides structure, tannin and weight, and the Merlot softy fills in the gaps, with a plush plummy fruitiness. A dense black-red colour in the glass, and with an earthy toast of oak to the perfume. A touch of mint, some spice and herbs, and masses of dark bramble and plum fruits. A great match for a winter casserole or just a good steak.

Kilikanoon ‘Baroota’ Limited Release Reserve Shiraz 2019 is the latest ‘limited release’ of the wine that was originally made as a tenth anniversary edition. Unashamedly big in stature, with lashings of oak and a power-packed palate that’s brimming with ripe, inky fruit flavours. Full-bodied, rounded and with a smooth, plush texture, there is still lots of fine tannin and balanced acidity here. I’d be enjoying this as it is now – but it would keep well and develop into an unctuous, mellow drop in another five years time. 91pts

Vinho do Fava Touriga Nacional 2020 showcases the favourite varietal of Portugal. The nation’s most famous wines are Ports from the Douro; but their table reds are gaining a lot of attention in recent years too, with wines from Touriga Nacional grapes even being crafted in Australia now. Robust and smoky on the nose, with spice and vanilla added to the dark red fruit notes. Off-dry on the palate, driven by a ripe fruit sweetness, and supple tannin. That lush textural feel makes this style quite an approachable proposition – nothing too hard to understand or complicated. I could drink this on its own, or with a tapas-style meal of charcuterie and cheeses. 90pts

It has been a couple of months since my last ‘wine adventure in a box’ from laithwaites.co.nz arrived – and it is funny how you can just drop back into your comfort zone and drink what you always drink – when, in fact, there’s a whole world of discovery to be had out in the world of wines. I do get sent quite a bit of wine – and in the last month I’ve hosted another ‘Top 10 Tasting’ benchmarking New Zealand Syrahs; tasted through lots of new releases from wineries; and the fantastic Hawke’s Bay Annual Chardonnay Collection… but even so, I’m as guilty as anyone of falling back into a rut.

One thing that these taster boxes from Laithwaites do – and it will be the same for you as it is for me – is that they can take you out of that zone where you know what you’re getting – and you can enjoy it – but you’re not finding anything new. The first wine is a great example – would I normally reach for a Verdelho? Probably not – but you should. It is a great wine – and this Aussie version is as good as the crisp whites from the north of Spain and Portugal. Laithwaites are the longest-running wine subscription service for a reason – and in NZ they offer a money-back guarantee. Here’s what I thought of the wines…

Lake Alex Verdelho The varietal of Verdelho originates in Portugal, but was amongst the first white grapes to be planted in Langhorne Creek and still growing to this day. Naturally fertile floodplain soils and the moderating, cooling evening breezes off nearby Lake Alexandria and the Southern Ocean in summer, give great conditions for a zesty varietal like Verdelho. Very pale green-gold in the glass, with steely aromatics of grapefruit, green melon, cucumber, lemon and spice that leans toward white pepper and jalapeno. The palate is firm, precise but filled with ripe flavours. A focused core with a splash of granny smith apple, lime zest and pithy citrus. Briney acidity carries to a long dry finish. 91pts

Howard Vineyard Adelaide Hills Sparkling Pinot Noir/Chardonnay A single-vineyard wine, hailing from the ‘Beautiful Valley’ vineyard in a small town called Charleston in the Adelaide Hills. A pale straw colour with a hint of strawberry pink to the edges. Perfumed with pear, lemon curd, buttered toast, raspberry, green apple and a floral lift of rose petals. A fine mousse of bubbles entices you into the dry, vibrant palate where some crushed-shell minerality underpins the clean juiciness. The back of the palate is quite plush, with a yoghurt-like creaminess, leading to a long, zesty finish. An uncomplicated, seamless and refreshing sparkler. 88pts

Catch 22 Vineyards Barossa Valley Semillon Sauvignon Blanc A classic white blend you’ll find in Europe, and of course around the world now. The citrus and floral aromatics of the Semillon pair well with the more tropical notes of passionfruit, blackcurrant and grassy green herbals of the Sauvignon Blanc. Grapefruit, lime, ginger and some savoury sliced fennel and green olive flavours into the palate. A saline minerality and acidity gives lots of bounce and lift, before a texture that is plush and generous fills in the back of the palate. By no means just a simple dry white, this has enough layers and complexity to keep your interest right to the last drop. 91pts

Black Pig Ltd Edition Barossa Valley Grenache Rosé Rosé is one of those wines that tends to be bought on colour – this pale salmon pink example is right on trend for increasingly light-toned coppery hues in rosé. Elegant and dry, with redcurrant, rosehip and raspberry flavours – bigger than the colour might suggest, and with a pulse of refreshing acidity keeping those juices flowing. Fleshy and succulent but deftly dry and with a tart nip of fruit tannin – like the skin of a red apple. Dry rosés can make excellent food-matching wines, and I’d see this brightening a lunchtime table this winter. 88pts

RedHeads 1888 Barossa Valley Shiraz There’s a reason that Barossa is regarded as the epicentre of Shiraz – wines from here have that trick of delivering just what you expect – and often with a little more (as is the case here!) Dark and intense in the glass and on the nose. Blackberry, mint, plum, green capsicum, mulberry and liquorice aromas lead to a spicy palate where cedary oak and grippy tannin gives a spine to the juicy fruits. Look for layers of dark cacao, black pepper, vanilla and cinnamon as you go. A plush, velvet texture and a balanced finish with decent length – a cracking winter warmer. 90pts

Cabalie 2021 Increasingly today, Grenache based wines seem to be split into two camps. There are the lighter, crunchy, chillable versions; and then there are the big, rich ripe ones with more concentration and plushness. Both show the distinctive raspberry fruits – as does this wine from the picturesque landscape of the Languedoc region in the South of France. The Cabalie is a blend of Grenache, herby Syrah, and spicy Carignan grapes from old vines (most over 50 years old). Revelling in a succulent depth of dark cherry, toasted spices, liquorice and berry coulis; it is (for me) holding a touch too much sweetness – but I expect it to find plenty of fans of its smooth, jammy style. 86pts

Get online at www.laithwaites.co.nz – you’ll find pages where I recommend dozens of other wines from this great supplier.

A new box of wine discoveries from the good folk at Laithwaites. They really do seem to be able to deliver the goods again and again – it’s never a boring selection. Great wines and great value. This time it is a box of seven wines, with a range from around the world. I absolutely love getting these boxes that are chock-full of wines that I probably wouldn’t be able to find – or even, choose, for myself, certainly not easily! I mean, a Spanish Moscatel, a Sicilian Pinot Grigio, Touriga Nacional and Vermentino? Are we not entertained?

Starting white… with three out of the four wines being a long way away from your usual supermarket shelf selection. The first – an italian style Pinot Gris is more familiar, so we’ll ease into the tasting with that.

Back once again with another mixed box. They just keep coming! Hahaha. I liked a lot about this one – not often I get to try a Chardonnay from Coonawarra… two rieslings, and three different reds – including one from Argentina, in one sitting.

RedHeads Harmonie Rox Chardonnay 2021 A Chardonnay from Coonawarra – usually home of the big, bold reds, but today brings a single vineyard, Mendoza-clone Chardonnay. A pale green-gold in the glass, with an attractive nose filled with meyer lemon, pear, quince, chestnut, white peach and a yeasty, oatmeal character. Tight and austere on the mid-weight palate, although this loosened its grip after a few minutes opening up in the glass. An excellent, salty acidity pushes the wine on. There’s a lees-influenced texture that is just the right side of creamy, and rounds out a lovely balanced, well-crafted white wine. 93pts

Split Rock Riesling 2021 From the Nelson region in New Zealand. A bright lemon colour, showing a real zing and burst of aromatics. Apricot, fennel, lychee, lime, wet stone and ginger on the nose. Off-dry and medium bodied – the slight sweetness balances the crisp acidity, leaving the palate clean and fresh. The fruit widens into a more tropical spectrum, showing pineapple and melon. A subtle minerality also shows, with hints of wet stone and chalk. The finish is full and refreshing. 89pts

Yes, I know. This is becoming a regular thing now! But there is quite a lot to discover in the world of Laithwaites, and these mixed boxes are quite addictive! This time I’d manage to squeeze in a few bottles from a selection they have from New Zealand – as well as some other treats, from near and far.

Happy to get a Pinot Noir in the box – especially one from Te Muna Road in Martinborough – Big Sky Pinot Noir 2020. A deep crimson in the glass, with a herbaceous, bloody nose that shows both some freshness and earthiness. Cranberry, bramble, cloves, pepper and a violet, rose petal floral lift. Lots of savouriness, with yellow beetroot, fennel, olive and crushed-stone minerality. Texturally smooth and with fine, supple tannins. Finishes long, with a gentle harmony as the elements meld together. 93pts

We’re back to the fun of the fair tonight, with another mystery box of goodness delivered from those wine experts at Laithwaites. You’ll remember back in May this year when I took a box around to a friend’s house and worked our way through it with a gourmet meal – www.winefolio.co.nz/?p=5469. I enjoyed it so much, I got another two – one reviewed now, and another to enjoy in a couple of weeks time!

I can’t tell you how many times I get passed the wine list at a restaurant and have the expectation of being able to pick out a stunner from what is, sadly, often fairly thin pickings. So there is a certain joy to be had at having someone else deliver you wines that you’ve not had to pick out, or guess what might be better than average from a pile of things you’ve never had before. I’m also finding that a lot of the wines in the Laithwaites range are a little left of centre – the last box had a Susumaniello and a Roussillon Carignan-Grenache blend. You’ll see from the list below that this was also a pick and mix, with a white blend amongst the surprises.

We started off with what I thought would be the lightest of the bunch – Zonte’s Footstep ‘Shades of Gris’ 2021, opened to go with olives and bruschetta of feta and fresh tomato. From the Adelaide Hills, and labelled as ‘Pinot Grigio’, this is an intriguing take on Pinot Gris. Intended to sit between the Italian and Alsace style – when I tasted this blind – with my eyes closed – I would not have been surprised if it was a rosé.

The aromatics are demure and ethereal, showing nashi pear, blanched almond, white cherry, dried pineapple and lemon blossom. Off-dry, with a crunch of crisp acidity, a fuzzy peach-skin tannin, and defined fruit flavours that do develop nicely across the palate. A touch of viscosity to the texture, ending in a more-ish, clean finish. A great food matching wine. 88pts